Sew Special Workshop -

Simple Tote Bag

You will need:  1/2 yard fabric for outside of bag; 1/2 yard fabric for lining; 1/2 yard fusible batting or fusible fleece (interlining); 2 yards 1" wide webbing for straps; plus a 12" by 4" piece of plastic canvas used for needlework or crafting.

Cut two pieces each 18" square from outside, lining and interlining fabrics.  From remainder of outside and lining fabrics, cut 2 pieces 9" square for pockets.

Cut webbing in half so each piece measures 1" by 36".

Fuse batting or fleece to wrong side of outside fabric.

Each square below represents a 2" square of fabric. Cut a 3" square from side edges at the bottoms of each piece; in this illustration, the dark squares.

Turn under 1/2" along top edge of all pocket pieces, press flat.  Turn under another 1/2", press and stitch close to the edge.  Turn under 1/2" on each side and bottom edges of all pocket pieces and press.  

Place outside pocket pieces 8" from top in the center of each outside piece; pin and sew sides and bottom close to folded edges.  

Place inside pockets 4" from top in the center of each lining piece.  Pin and sew  sides and bottom edges close to folded edges.

Join front and back of outside; pin and sew side seams using a 1/2" seam allowance. DO NOT SEW BOTTOM CUT-OUT.  Pin and sew across bottom of outside.  Press seams open.  

For lining, repeat - EXCEPT - leave a 6" opening in center of bottom seam.  Press.

Pinch the bottom cut-out so you can match side seam with bottom seam on each side.  Pin and sew using a 1/2" seam.  You will have created a box bottom.  Magic!  Repeat for lining.

Turn outside bag right-side out.  Place cut ends of strap pieces on outside top of bag about where the "S" is on the illustration above, with the straps hanging down toward the pocket. Sew in place.

Now, place outside bag inside lining bag so the right sides of fabrics are facing each other and the wrong sides are showing.  Be sure straps are tucked inside.  Match centers and side seams along the top and pin.  Sew all around the top in a 1/2" seam.   

Reach in through the opening of the lining bottom (now you know why we left this open) and pull the outside bag through.  Your bag now looks like it should.  Press the top seam (where the straps are) where the outside fabric and lining meet.  Sew  all around top 1/4" away from the pressed edge.  

Cut a 1/8" slice off one 12" and one 4" side of plastic canvas.  Slip into bottom of tote bag (this will add a really nice sturdy feel to bottom) and slip-stitch the 6" bottom opening closed.  

Pat yourself on the back - you've just made a terrific bag!

Pillowcasewith Band

Ύ yard fabric for large section (body)                                             

Lay out fabric on table; fold in half so both selvedge edges are along the edge of table in front of you - fold is away from you.          

Use a long wooden ruler to mark a straight line along right and left sides so your piece measures 27”.  Mark lightly with pencil and cut through both layers with scissors.

1/3 yard fabric for small section (band)

Lay out fabric on table; fold in half so both selvedge edges are along the edge of table in front of you - fold is away from you.    

Use a long wooden ruler to mark a straight line along right and left sides so your piece measures 12”.  Mark lightly with pencil and cut through both layers with  scissors.                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Thread your bobbin and your machine.

Use Pins about every 6 to 8” to hold the layers evenly together along one long edge and one end of body.  Remember to turn your fabric so the printed (right) sides are together.

Place fabric on the machine on your left and the needle 5/8” away from the right-hand edge. 

Sew together, using a 5/8” seam.  Backstitch 3 stitches at the beginning and end of each seam to lock your seams.  Press your seams open – or zigzag them closed.  Cut off diagonally the extra fabric in the corner beyond your seams.  Turn right side out.

Pin, then sew the short edges of the band together, using a 5/8” seam.  Backstitch 3 stitches at the beginning and end to lock your seam.  Remember to sew your fabric so the printed (right) sides are together.  Your band will now look like a tube. 

Press seams open.  Fold the edges of the tube together (the ones you haven’t sewn yet) with the right side (printed side) out so you have a tube 6” long.

Wrap the folded band around the open end of the body - and right sides together - matching seams and centers.   Pin and sew  using a 5/8” seam to join the band to the body.  Zigzag the seam.

Press the band down.  Grab your pillowcase by the corners to give it a flip – you’re DONE!  

Congratulations – you’ve just made a fabulous pillowcase :)      

 Keep checking back!  More projects will be added as I get to them and figure out how to better use this website program.

Connie

Questions?  Connie Williams - 913-648-3854

 Sew Special Workshop

Home to the Serious Seamstress
    Lessons - Private and Classroom settings - call 913-648-3854 to set up a time.

On this page, I am including some projects that are free for you to download and print.  Eventually, there will also be some to buy, download and print; but they'll be on the "Items for Sale" section.  
 

Steps to Making a Pillow Cover

Sewing 101 Bonus Project - - - - - - - Instructor: Connie Williams

1.  Fold your fabric with selvages together along the first line on your rotary mat.

     a. If your fabric is 45” wide, it will measure 23 ½” across

     b. If your fabric is 54” wide (decorator fabric department), it will measure 27”

2.  "Square up" one end of your fabric.  

     a.  Cut using a rotary cutter along top cross grain so you have a straight            edge across.

(If your rotary cutting mat is not wide enough to accommodate the fabric, fold again – that is place original fold on top and even with selvages – making 4 layers to cut through.)

     b. If you don’t have a rotary cutter and mat, use a wooden or plastic ruler and marker to draw a straight line across top of fabric. Pin near the mark or use something to hold fabric in place while you use scissors to cut across.

3.  For an 18” pillow cover, as in our class example, you will measure, mark and cut      19” down from the squaring-up mark and cut you made going across.

4.  Your fabric piece – with its original fold – now measures 19” x 23½” or 19” x 27”      depending on the type of fabric you chose. Set aside any excess fabric.

5.  Measure and cut 9½“ from the fold, resulting in a 19” square. This is your front      piece. Open and slide this 19“ square off to one side of your work area with the      right side facing up.

6.  Place remaining two (back) pieces, right sides down, on top of 19“ square with      selvages facing each other toward the middle (these pieces will actually overlap      each other) and cut edges lined up with the side cut edges of the square.

7.  You will pin the corners (on the diagonal, remember) of the layers, plus another pin      or two a few inches away from each of the diagonal pins.

8.  You are looking at the wrong side of the two back pieces. Fold the selvage edges,      so you can see about 1½” of the right side of 45” (or 3” for 54”) fabric, and stitch      close to the selvage edge of each back piece.

9.  Re-place these two back pieces and pin. Each is wider than half, so they will      overlap in the middle of the square – they’re supposed to.

10.  Sew, using a ½“ seam, through all layers around the edge of the square. Start        anywhere – backstitch a couple of stitches - and stitch around the pillow cover,         removing pins as you come to them.

11.  As you get near each corner, slow down and, if necessary, use the hand wheel to        stitch within a thread of the diagonal pins and stop.

       a. Put your needle down – remove diagonal pin – raise presser foot.

       b. With needle still in fabric, pivot the fabric, lower presser foot, and you are ready             to sew the next side.

12.  Repeat along all sides and corners until you reach your starting point.

13.  Cut across each corner on the outside of your stitching – diagonally - to reduce         bulk.

14.  Turn your pillow cover right side out.

15.  Press and enjoy!

Just for fun, here are directions for the same pillow that will be just fine when you’ve done a few projects:

Square up one end of fabric. Cut across to make a strip 19” long by width of fabric. Cut a 19” square for the front. Use remaining portion of strip for two back pieces. Sew a 1½” (or 3” for 54”-wide fabric) hem on the narower edges for back overlap. Place right sides together with hemmed edges overlapping in the middle and pin. Stitch in a ½” seam all the way around, pivoting at each corner pin. Clip corners. Turn right side out.  Press. Enjoy!

 Keep checking back!  More projects will be added as I get to them and figure out how to better use this website program.

Connie

Questions?  Connie Williams - 913-648-3854